A tough but enjoyable day today, with the classic Tour de France giants of the Col d'Aubisque and the Col du Tourmalet (plus the Col de Soulor, which is just a pimple on the side of the Aubisque).
I set off from the hotel in a group of 4, with what could have been a leisurely warm up through a forest towards Arudy, but it was a bit swift for my liking (particularly when we slipstreamed a tractor for 2 km at 40 kph ...don't try this at home, kids!). At the base of the Col d'Aubisque, the group fragmented and I rode with Thierry from Belgium up the steady 6-8% inclines towards the Victorian spa town of Eaux-Bonnes, then up into the clouds as we approached Gourette, 4 km from the top. Here, James was waiting with a van full of snacks, perfectly timed for the last push to the summit. Thierry was suffering a bit now so we slowed the pace a bit but reached the top. Quickly on with some extra layers from the ever present support van, it was straight in to the summit cafe for hot choc and yet more cake. I set off alone on the descent as it's pretty tricky in the wet & cold, plus this section has the spectacular but ever-so-slightly scary Corniche du Litor, a section of road built in to a rock face above a 1000-ft drop. Added to that are two unlit rock tunnels on bends (so there's initially no light at the end to aim for) plus the occasional kamikaze sheep, cow or mountain goat ...just to keep you on your toes!
The Soulor was a nice chance to warm up again, and by now the road had dried, so the descent & valley floor through Arrens to Argeles Gazost was a dream.
Here, I met Thierry again and we polished off a quick Spag bol for lunch before starting the long but beautiful haul up the Gorges de Luz. Helped by a tailwind, and with patches of blue sky appearing, we reached Luz St Sauveur at about 14:45, but Thierry was clearly struggling a bit now and a bit concerned about the 18 km / 1400 m climb of the Tourmalet ahead. I did my best to pace him up to Bareges, but he waved me on and so I continued alone, enjoying what is still one of my favourite climbs. I can't do it quickly, I just enjoy doing it.
At Super-Bareges, there's now the option of taking the old road (closed to motor traffic) up to Pont de la Gaubie, or taking the new road lower down. I opted for the former, and enjoyed some great views before entering the clouds at about 1800 m. I was careful to keep stoking the engine with food at this point, and it paid off as I passed some other guys from our party in the brutal final 2 km feeling surprisingly fresh. It was bitterly cold at the top, so again it was on with the layers and in to the cafe for hot choc & cake. Lots of interesting bike memorabilia adorned the walls of the cafe, but once refuelled I didn't hang around long before setting off on the massive descent down to Ste Marie de Campan. I was expecting this to be dry once I dropped (literally) out of the clouds, but the road stayed wet and then it started to rain. I concentrated hard on keeping a good line through the corners, conscious that my thin racing tyres presented hardly any contact area with the wet road, but aware of the need to drop down to the warmer valley below. I nearly lost it when a dog jumped out at me at 50 kph from behind a van in La Mongie, but made it safely down to Ste Marie, turned left and then time-trialled the final 10 k to Campan in an effort to warm up! Another hotel, another monster meal. And I was soon on the way to recovery.
Lots of smaller cols and 170 k tomorrow: the church bell outside my window is chiming midnight, so it's time I turned in.
I set off from the hotel in a group of 4, with what could have been a leisurely warm up through a forest towards Arudy, but it was a bit swift for my liking (particularly when we slipstreamed a tractor for 2 km at 40 kph ...don't try this at home, kids!). At the base of the Col d'Aubisque, the group fragmented and I rode with Thierry from Belgium up the steady 6-8% inclines towards the Victorian spa town of Eaux-Bonnes, then up into the clouds as we approached Gourette, 4 km from the top. Here, James was waiting with a van full of snacks, perfectly timed for the last push to the summit. Thierry was suffering a bit now so we slowed the pace a bit but reached the top. Quickly on with some extra layers from the ever present support van, it was straight in to the summit cafe for hot choc and yet more cake. I set off alone on the descent as it's pretty tricky in the wet & cold, plus this section has the spectacular but ever-so-slightly scary Corniche du Litor, a section of road built in to a rock face above a 1000-ft drop. Added to that are two unlit rock tunnels on bends (so there's initially no light at the end to aim for) plus the occasional kamikaze sheep, cow or mountain goat ...just to keep you on your toes!
The Soulor was a nice chance to warm up again, and by now the road had dried, so the descent & valley floor through Arrens to Argeles Gazost was a dream.
Here, I met Thierry again and we polished off a quick Spag bol for lunch before starting the long but beautiful haul up the Gorges de Luz. Helped by a tailwind, and with patches of blue sky appearing, we reached Luz St Sauveur at about 14:45, but Thierry was clearly struggling a bit now and a bit concerned about the 18 km / 1400 m climb of the Tourmalet ahead. I did my best to pace him up to Bareges, but he waved me on and so I continued alone, enjoying what is still one of my favourite climbs. I can't do it quickly, I just enjoy doing it.
At Super-Bareges, there's now the option of taking the old road (closed to motor traffic) up to Pont de la Gaubie, or taking the new road lower down. I opted for the former, and enjoyed some great views before entering the clouds at about 1800 m. I was careful to keep stoking the engine with food at this point, and it paid off as I passed some other guys from our party in the brutal final 2 km feeling surprisingly fresh. It was bitterly cold at the top, so again it was on with the layers and in to the cafe for hot choc & cake. Lots of interesting bike memorabilia adorned the walls of the cafe, but once refuelled I didn't hang around long before setting off on the massive descent down to Ste Marie de Campan. I was expecting this to be dry once I dropped (literally) out of the clouds, but the road stayed wet and then it started to rain. I concentrated hard on keeping a good line through the corners, conscious that my thin racing tyres presented hardly any contact area with the wet road, but aware of the need to drop down to the warmer valley below. I nearly lost it when a dog jumped out at me at 50 kph from behind a van in La Mongie, but made it safely down to Ste Marie, turned left and then time-trialled the final 10 k to Campan in an effort to warm up! Another hotel, another monster meal. And I was soon on the way to recovery.
Lots of smaller cols and 170 k tomorrow: the church bell outside my window is chiming midnight, so it's time I turned in.
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